Welcome to DesBNet - Madrid

No. of Visits 1 - Last Visited 2002

General

Above all else, most people are drawn here for its 'Golden Triangle' of Art Museums, namely: the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofía, with their impressive collections of Classic & Contemporary paintings. Madrid has a lot more to offer than just Art Galleries though, and once you spend a few days wandering around, you will uncover a City full of interesting Plaza's, Promenades & Parks. The climate plays a huge part in dictating the pace of life, where long lunches, afternoon siestas & late dining are the norm. Nightlife begins late, with many nightclubs open until Breakfast Time!

Geography

Centrally located in Spain, Madrid is the highest capital in Europe - over 2,000 ft above sea level. The Fifteenth Century "Puerta del Sol" is home to a statue of a bear and madroño (strawberry tree), the emblem of Madrid, and is recognised as being the centre of the City. Many of the sights that most visitors will wish to encounter are located in the Centro, Retiro & Salamanca districts.

Climate

Boasting 2800 hours of annual sunshine,  Madrid's climate is one of the healthiest in Europe due to the fresh air provided by the surrounding mountain ranges of Guadarrama (north-east), Somosierra (to the north and north-east) and Toledo (south and east). This leads to it's being one of the world's hottest cities in summer, but also very cold in winter, though snow is rarely seen. Spring (April-June) and early Autumn (September-October) are recognised as being the best times to visit. Low humidity makes the summer heat-waves more bearable.

History

Originating from a 9th Century Arab Fortress built on the left bank of the Manzanares River (a section of the town wall is still standing), Christians and Arabs fought bitterly over the territory until the 11th Century, when Alfonso VI triumphed. In 1561, Philip II relocated the country's capital from Toledo to Madrid, and is still today's home to the Parliament, Senate and Royal Family. Carlos I, succeeded not only to the throne of Spain but also to that of the Habsburgs, becoming Holy Roman Emperor over territories stretching from Austria to Holland and from Spain to the American colonies. Habsburg Spain came to an end in 1700 with the death of Carlos II, who neglected to leave a successor. The War of Independence came about from a popular revolt started in the Puerta del Sol in 1808. Further battles ensued over the coming years, during which time both Napoleon & José Bonaparte entered Spain, but were finally dispelled by an Anglo-Hispanic army led by The "Iron" Duke of Wellington. The 1930's saw a period of civil unrest in Spain, culminating in party infighting, strikes & further revolts, leading up to the elections of February 1936, where Frente Nacional (National Front) were beaten by the left-wing Frente Popular (Popular Front). Civil War broke out, and three bloody years later, the Nationalists surrendered, leaving Spain in control of General Francisco Franco, a position that he maintained until his death in 1975. Franco named Juan Carlos, the grandson of Alfonso XIII, his successor. A moderate Conservative government was appointed by Juan Carlos, which amongst other reforms, legalised Trade Unions & Opposition Parties. 1979 saw Madrid's first free municipal elections, and power has since alternated between left-wing and right-of-centre councils. More recently, the artistic and cultural activity in the city have been revived, restoration of the old centre has been carried out, and public transport and housing have been improved.

Language & Culture

The Madrileños speak Castellano (Castilian Spanish), a dialect instantly recognisable by fellow Spaniards. English is widely understood, however, as always, I found that learning a few phrases of the local language brought dividends. The month of August sees many of Madrid's 3m population heading for the coastal areas, with many bars, restaurants and some smaller museums closing for the month. Many Madrileños enjoy long lunch breaks & afternoon siestas to counter the sweltering heat, which leads up to a nightlife scene that is second to none. Strolling between Tapas Bars is a prelude to the Evening meal, usually consumed after 10pm. Bars & Nightclubs are then the centre of attention until the early hours, with some of the more hardy revellers indulging in a breakfast of Hot Chocolate & Churros (similar to Doughnuts) on their way home.

Accommodation

Madrid's accommodation is comparable with other major European cities, with a good mixture of moderate, expensive & budget options available in or around the City centre. Most major Hotel chains have properties in Madrid.

Sight Seeing

Most of Madrid's attractions are centrally located in the area between the Royal Palace and the Parque del Retiro. Approx. 2½ km covers the distance, which means that most of the sights can be taken in on foot.

The Art Galleries of The Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen-Bornemisza are high on the agenda of many visitors, and are conveniently located close to one another. Covering the complete spectrum of styles & topics, including Pablo Picasso's "Guenica", many examples of Salvador Dali's talent, and paintings from El Greco, Goya & Velazquez, they are without doubt Madrid's jewels.

The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) was commissioned by Felipe V in the early 18th C. on the same site as the first Moorish fortress was built, some 900 years previously. This was the principal royal residence until Alfonso XIII went into exile in 1931. Guided tours are available, though it is also easy to navigate this beautifully appointed building independently, with the banquet hall being one of the highlights. The Palace is now only used for State occasions, as the Royal Family now occupy apartments on the western outskirts of Madrid. A statue of Felipe IV on horseback, based on designs by Velázquez, and Galileo can be found in the Plaza de Oriente, squeezed in between the Palace & the Teatro Real Opera House.

The central point of Madrid is the bustling Puerto del Sol. Another of the Habsburg legacies is Plaza Mayor. This enclosed square with it's plethora of eateries sprouting from the arcades was previously the site of many a Public Gathering, including marriages, parties, bull-fights and executions. The Baroque Basilica de San Isidro, is home to the remains of the city's patron saint. Close by is the quaint Plaza de la Villa, a perfectly preserved example of some of the older architecture on show in Madrid, and home to structures spanning the 15th-17th Centuries, including the Ayuntamiento (town hall), a typical Habsburg structure of granite and slate spires.

Uncomfortably encircled by heavy traffic, the impressive statue of a Greco-Roman fertility goddess astride a lion-drawn chariot is at the heart of Plaza de Cibeles. Surrounding landmarks include the Banco de Espana, and the decorative Palacio de Comunicaciones.

The Retiro Park covers some 120 Hectares, and was opened in 1868. Within it's boundaries can be found The Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace), the Rosaleda (rose garden), and a Boating Lake. West of Palacio Royal lies one of Europe's largest public parks, The Casa de Campo consisting of 1722 hectares. Home to a trade fair area, an amusement park, Madrid's Zoo and the Teleférico (cable car), this huge area suffered enormous damage during the Civil War before it was finally handed over to the City Authorities in 1963. Situated next to the Prado Museum, The Botanical Gardens (Jardín Botánico) hosts a collection of more than 30,000 species of plants, including several varieties of tropical plants housed in the hothouse.

Beaches

None

Local Transport

The Metro system is clean, & easy to use, and there is also a network of 150 bus routes which are fast and efficient as special lanes are provided. Each journey costs €1, though a Metrobus ticket, valid for 10 trips on either mode of transport is available for €5, saving you 50% ! There's a transport information stand in the Plaza de Cibeles.
Taxis, distinguished by their white colour, diagonal red stripe and green light on the roof, may be hired at ranks or in the street. As always, it is always worth checking that the meter is running. There are surcharges for additional passengers, telephone or airport pick-up, and luggage.

Night Life

Flamenco can be enjoyed in a number of the city's Bars & Tavernas, normally after an evening meal. As previously mentioned, Tapas Bars are treated as a "warm-up" for the serious business of eating, then partying. Things don't really start to happen in the nightclubs until after 11pm - if you get there too early, you may find yourself with the place to yourselves. Most clubs stay open until about 3am, some later that that. Admission can be quite expensive.

Restaurants

Lunch is widely considered to be the main meal of the day, and taken of between 2-4pm. Early evening Tapas is followed by a light evening meal, normally at around 10pm. Most of the bars provide good fare at reasonable prices, and this option is favoured by many of the locals. The menú del día (Menu of the day) can offer outstanding value for money. Proper restaurants offer a much higher standard of cuisine though, and prices are still acceptable. Local specialities are well represented on the menu, with Paella being a favourite choice. Roasted Meats, and Seafood are the major bulk of the menus, with Offal based delicacies such as Black Pudding & Tripe also featuring.
Fast food establishments abound, as elsewhere, although in Madrid there is even less of a reason to indulge in these offerings as the bars, with their pavement terraces, can offer a far better alternative, albeit at a marginally higher cost.
Spanish Wines have been much maligned over the years, but it would be churlish to suggest that this is the case now. Good quality Crainzas & Riojas can be found at very affordable prices on most wine lists, and in the shops & supermarkets.
Spanish law requires service charge to be included in the bill; tipping is at the customer's discretion, but 5-10% is acceptable.

Shopping

Leather Goods, Porcelain & Glassware, and Clothing proliferate, and mainly, the quality is exceptional. Prices are reasonable, bearing in mind the workmanship, but don't expect bargain basement prices. Most shops open between 09.30 and 13.30h in the morning and 17.00 to 20.00h in the afternoon on weekdays. During the summer months, many establishments will stay open much later in the evening. On Saturday opening hours are restricted to the morning shift and Sunday is literally the day of rest.
The prosperous Salamanca district hosts many of the most exclusive shops in Madrid, with prices to match. Other areas offer a great diversity of goods, and browsing the streets around Puerto del Sol & Gran Via can prove fruitful. Some of the more eclectic establishments are located in the area of Chuecha.
El Corte Inglés, a chain of department stores, have many outlets in Madrid, the largest being at Calle de Preciados.
Spain's largest Flea Market can be found at El Rastro on a Sunday morning.

Car Hire

As most sightseeing is achievable on foot, driving in Madrid is probably not worth the hassle. Parking is scarce, and the traffic, while not horrendous, is still busy.

Getting There

Barajas airport is about 13km from Madrid's city centre. Being Spain's biggest international airport, handling over 22m passengers per year, most major airlines provide flights to this destination. The City centre can be reached by Metro, and direct bus links. Driving from Portugal or France is easy as Spain's major highways feed into Madrid. Bus & Train services from around Europe service Madrid as well.